Daniel Ashby merritt

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PURPOSE BLOG

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This weeks pillar is purpose, with the development of competitive business strategies in the fashion industry, it is crucial that brands display clear values and a purpose. A brands purpose refers to the reason the brand exists – other than for profit. This could be an underlying ethos towards a social issue, sustainable practices, etc… This is especially important not just in context of consumers but how the business itself grows. Research shows “Purpose-oriented companies have higher productivity and growth rates, along with a more satisfied workforce who stay longer with them” (O’Brien et al., 2019). People want to work for brands that share their values, and that want to do good for the world, allowing for a more positive worker environment and motivates workers to contribute to the best of their ability. “When purpose is hardwired, a company’s positions, communications, and external engagement become logical extensions of your business model; purpose eliminates the gap between walk and talk.”(Leape et al., 2020) a brands purpose must be present throughout every aspect of how its runs and without this it cannot properly function.

Gen. Z are the future consumers that business must be able to communicate their purpose to. This generation is know for its preference to brands with a social standing, for example, ‘the research of members of Generation Z shows that 73% are willing to pay more for sustainability, with the majority willing to pay a premium of up to 10%’ (Furbee, 2021). In order to gain the attention on Gen. Z,  brands must align their purpose with the consumers. Another thing to consider is transparency,  “Things that you could in the past hide by selecting and choosing what you wanted to show the public – today everything is fair game”(Rahilly et al., 2020). A brands ethos must translate clearly to its consumer, for example if it claims to be ethically made, consumers can easily find online if the brand has a history of unfair treatment of workers. In order to communicate its purpose, brands look to social media. Influencers are a tool many brands favour when it comes to promoting to Gen. Z. Followers of influencers consume their media, wether that be through YouTube, tik Tok, Instagram or other platforms, these parasocial type relationships give a sense of trust and many will take their word without question. Brands use this to advantage and pay influencers to rave about their values and purpose. One of the first luxury brand to endorse an influencer was Louis Vuitton in 2021, inviting YouTuber Emma chamberlain to their Paris fashion week show. Emma vlogged the show and the results saw an expanse on the brands normal clientele and an opportunity to express there values through a modern relatable lense. 

Reference 

Leape, S., Zou, J., Loadwick, O., Nuttall, R., Stone, M., & Simpson, B. (2020, November 5). More than a mission statement: How the 5PS embed purpose to deliver value. McKinsey & Company. https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/strategy-and-corporate-finance/our-insights/more-than-a-mission-statement-how-the-5ps-embed-purpose-to-deliver-value# 

Rahilly, L., Finneman, B., & Spagnuolo, E. (2020, August 4). Meet Generation Z: Shaping the future of Shopping. McKinsey & Company. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/meet-generation-z-shaping-the-future-of-shopping 

Furbee, C. (2021, December 9). Gen Z makes sustainability important for all businesses. Sustainable Investment Group. https://sigearth.com/gen-z-makes-sustainability-important-for-all-businesses/ 

O’Brien, D., Main, A., Kounkel, S., & Stephan, A. (2019, October 15). Purpose is everything. Deloitte Insights. https://www2.deloitte.com/us/en/insights/topics/marketing-and-sales-operations/global-marketing-trends/2020/purpose-driven-companies.html 

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Profit

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This weeks pillar is profit, profit is important in the fashion industry as it allows for growth and development in a brand and freedom of creative outlet for designers without limitation, with any creative vision being able to bring to life to therefore generate further profit. The fashion industry is a massive economic sector that encompasses everything from clothing, accessories to footwear. “The revenue of the global apparel market was estimated to amount to 1.53 trillion U.S. dollars in 2022, with revenue forecast to increase in 2023, to more than 1.7 trillion dollars ” (Smith, 2023). With an industry so big brands are continuously striving for success. “collections must generate revenue, which is a point of success measurement when ceos and shareholders look at annual reports” (Mitterfellner, 2023). There are limitations to this, creativity sometimes must be subsided for marketability. In order to bridge the gap between art and commerce creative directors look for innovation in all aspects of the brands identity in order to excite consumers. For example, Karl Lagerfeld transformed runways into immersive experiences “he recreated supermarkets, an airport in the middle of Paris’s Grand Palais, had a giant rocket in the room”(Mitterfellner, 2023) Karls shows always captivated audiences and left a lasting impression. 

“The COVID-19 crisis has a great impact on the economy, including the luxury fashion industry, where sales have declined. The pandemic has interrupted supply and demand.”(Xie & Youn, 2020) Whilst some companies were able to change and survive many went into decline. For example, ,many non- luxury brands such as Debenhams and Topshop when bankrupt compared to luxury brands like Patrick Mcdowell who ran with the restrictions and turned out in success. AI is forthcoming in the industry, we have seen designers such as Patrick Mcdowell taking part in the first digital fashion week during the pandemic. This included designed garments being made into digital fashion rather than physical. “digital fashion gives the sense of inclusivity and accessibility that comes with it, because everyone with Wifi can experience it. This collection was open to everyone; everyone had a front row seat”(Murray-Nag, 2021)In order to stay relevant brand must look to gain traction from the new generation and look to the future. “AI applications reveals remarkable use cases, including predictive analytics for efficient production, personalisation to enhance product longevity, and virtual fitting rooms to limit wastage.”(Rathore, 2019) The use of AI not only appeals to the younger generations as exiting and innovative,  but it also has positive environmental impacts which have become more and more important to young people. 

Reference list 

Mitterfellner, O. (2023). Luxury Fashion Brand Management and Sustainability. Mastering Fashion Management.

Murray-Nag, B. (2021, February 3). Patrick McDowell: How I created my first fully digital fashion collection – eco-age. Eco. https://eco-age.com/resources/patrick-mcdowell-digital-fashion-collection/

Rathore, B. (2019). From trendy to green: Exploring AI’s role in Sustainable Fashion Marketing. International Journal of New Media Studies, 06(02), 12–22. https://doi.org/10.58972/eiprmj.v6i2y19.120 

Smith, P. (2023, August 31). Topic: Apparel market worldwide. Statista. https://www.statista.com/topics/5091/apparel-market-worldwide/#:~:text=The%20revenue%20of%20the%20global,more%20than%201.7%20trillion%20dollars.

Statista. (August 24, 2023). Revenue of the apparel market worldwide from 2014 to 2027 (in trillion U.S. dollars) [Graph]. In Statista. Retrieved October 22, 2023, from https://www.statista.com/forecasts/821415/value-of-the-global-apparel-market

 Xie, J., & Youn, C. (2020). How the luxury fashion brands adjust to deal with the COVID-19. International Journal of Costume and Fashion, 20(2), 50–60. https://doi.org/10.7233/ijcf.2020.20.2.050 

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People

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This weeks pillar is people, people are important in the fashion industry because they are its driving force. People consume and form fashion trends, but also are who create the garments we wear, sewing every seam to perfection. It is crucial to consider peoples wellbeing and working conditions within the industry.

Generation Z are individuals born between 1996 and 2010, ‘This generation’s identity has been shaped by the digital age, climate anxiety, a shifting financial landscape, and COVID-19.’(McKinsey & company, 2023). When it comes to consumption, Gen. Z looks for ethics, sustainability and transparency in the fashion industry. We are a generation that supports brands that want to make a true impact in society. According to a survey ‘the research of members of Generation Z shows that 73% are willing to pay more for sustainability, with the majority willing to pay a premium of up to 10%’ (Furbee, 2021) Gen. Z are willing to pay more for sustainable brands, as they value supporting companies that align with their values. In order for brands to attract Gen. Z, they must become more transparent when it comes to topics such as green washing and treatment of workers. 

‘Businesses must rethink how they deliver value to the consumer…and more than ever practice what they preach when they address marketing issues and work ethics’(Francis & Hoefel, 2018). If brands claim to prioritise practices, they must follow through to build trust and credibility with Gen. Z consumers. Use of advertisement is a big priority for Gen. Z, as we understand the influence of body image and mental health the media has. ‘Famous thin models wearing skinny clothes creates a misconception among women that “anorexic beauty”, in other words, skinny bodies are more attractive’(Kalender, 2020). These standards can create feelings of inadequacy in young people, its important to celebrate the fact that we are all unique in our own way.’over 60% of Gen. Z likes ads with ‘real’ people present, instead of celebrities’(Wang, 2021). This implies that by showing diverse models, businesses can connect with Gen. Z and promote a more body positive society. 

An example of brand who has had a successful response to diversity is Savage x Fenty by Rihanna. They’re commitment to feature models of various sizes, shapes and ethnicity in there advertisements. Research examined the SxF runway shows ‘Four themes emerged from this data: (a) feelings of sexiness, beauty, and empowerment; (b) inclusivity; (c) the uniqueness of the performance; and (d) challenges to capitalism.’ (Hakeem, 2020). The show challenged traditional beauty standards and created a space where everyone felt more empowered. 

In order to excel in the fashion industry, brands must show excellent people skills. This includes communication with consumers and a deeper understanding of what they want. Stella McCarteny excels in this especially in alining with Gen. Z values. She communicates commitments to eco friendly materials and collaborates with brands using past season materials. The brand allies itself with the UN’s sustainable development goals and showcases her understanding of the importance of people and planet in fashion. 

Francis, T., & Hoefel, F. (2018, November 12). “true gen”: Generation Z and its implications for companies. McKinsey & Company. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies

Furbee, C. (2021, December 9). Gen Z makes sustainability important for all businesses. Sustainable Investment Group. https://sigearth.com/gen-z-makes-sustainability-important-for-all-businesses/ 

Hakeem, F. (2020, December). Examining body positivity in Rihanna’s Savage X Fenty Lingerie runway show. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/348682454_Examining_Body_Positivity_in_Rihanna’s_Savage_X_Fenty_Lingerie_Runway_Show

Kalender, G. I. (2020). The portrayal of ideal beauty both in the media and in the fashion … https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/The-Portrayal-of-Ideal-Beauty-both-in-the-Media-and-Kalender/03ca6c9b9621c92a5effd12927e2ec29e0325566 

McKinsey & Company. (2023, March 20). What is gen Z?. McKinsey & Company. https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z

Wang, W. (2021.). How has the fashion industry reacted to gen Z’s completely different consumption concepts and shopping habits? Academic Journal of Humanities & Social Sciences. https://francis-press.com/papers/5327

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Planet blog

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The fashionindustry is one of the major contributors to world pollution. (Drew & Yehounme 2017 )”If consumption continues at its current rate, we’ll need three times as many natural resources by 2050 compared to what we used in 2000.” In order to address this in the industry, we must redefine sustainability and focus on not only the way in which we produce clothing, but the way we consume. Salvation Army Trading Company Ltd (SATCOL) concluded that generally, when clothing is disposed of it still has at least 70% of its useful life left. This implies that the influence of fast fashion is causing an influx of perfectly good clothing being disposed of after only a few wears. But why? Tik Tok shop promotes a culture of constant shopping and consumerism, the app showcases trending clothing promoted by influencers and encourages users to make impulsive purchases. It has been found that in online retail, para-social relationships, informativeness and wishful identification can affect consumers attitudes and purchase intentions (Gao and Koufaris, 2006; Reinikainen, Munnukka, Maity, & Luoma-aho, 2020; Shan et al., 2020), often people feel a connection with an influencer, and want to emulate their style, creating a desire to constantly keep up with the latest trends. 

The United Nations came up with 17 sustainable development goals to address things like poverty, gender equality, education and climate change. The goals act as a guide for a better and more sustainable future. One of these being responsible consumption and production, this goal encourages sustainable practices throughout the entire fashion supply chain, from sourcing materials for manufacturing and consumption. This closely relates to circular thinking, how we use the resources we have in a more sustainable way, this solution aims to minimise waste and prolong the lifespan of garments by promoting reusing, repurposing and recycling. The system whereby materials are continuously being circulated. After the covid pandemic many people became more sustainably concise due to a heightened awareness of environmental issues. In 2020, an extended survey done by Association of Manufacturers and Distributors in Spain (AECOC) stated that 44% of consumers declared to have stopped buying the products of those brands that they do not consider sustainable. Designer Patrick McDonnell is an example of this in practice. McDowell creates each piece using reclaimed fabrics and eco-friendly materials, prioritising a low carbon footprint. They also collaborate with industry partners such as Burberry for their collections, which repurpose past season fabrics and clothing.  By opting for eco-friendly materials and brands that reuse dead-stock, or recycled fabrics, we can reduce waste and make a positive impact on the planet.

References 

Drew, D., & Yehounme, G. (2017, luglio 5). The apparel industry’s environmental impact in 6 graphics. World Resources Institute. Recuperato 6 ottobre 2023, da https://www.wri.org/insights/apparel-industrys-environmental-impact-6 graphics#:~:text=We%20can%20expect%20increased%20demand,not%20a%20sustainable%20business%20model. 

Woolridge, A. C., Ward, G. D., Phillips, P. S., Collins, M., & Gandy, S. (2006). Life cycle assessment for reuse/recycling of donated waste textiles compared to use of virgin material: An UK energy saving perspective. Resources, conservation and recycling, 46(1), 94-103.

Zhang, P., Chao, C. W. F., Chiong, R., Hasan, N., Aljaroodi, H. M., & Tian, F. (2023). Effects of in-store live stream on consumers’ offline purchase intention. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 72, 103262.

Alexa, L., Apetrei, A., & Sapena, J. (2021). The COVID-19 lockdown effect on the intention to purchase sustainable brands. Sustainability, 13(6), 3241.

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MY FAVOURITE FASHION BRAND

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y favourite brand 

My favourite fashion brand is Germanier. The brand is a front footer in the fashion industry for its key aims of sustainability and ethics. They strive to show intricate and well constructed garments in there collections vast in colour and opulence. Designer Kevin Germanier has dressed the likes of celebrities such as lady gaga, Taylor swift and Kristen Stuart, this is a key element for me as to why I favour this brand, choosing to design for and dressing LGBT+ advocates is crucial in the society we are living in now, which demonises anyone who is different from the societal norm. The label’s collection is full of glitter-embellished dresses, sharp-cut skirts and sculptural jackets, proving that even the most statement piece of clothing can be sustainable. This brand sets the bar for the industry as we see more and more people seeing the vision of up cycled glamour.

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