Mollie Young

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Purpose Blog

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The final pillar ‘purpose’ addresses what a brand’s goal and philosophy is: mission, vision and value, thus leaving the consumers to wonder ‘what would the world loose if your organisation disappeared?’ (McKinsey, 2020).

Explaining the purpose of a brand is important to consumers as sharing the business’s story allows them to connect with the business on a more personal, emotional level (Kowalewicz, 2022).

ASOS has a purpose to ‘be Net Zero, Be More Circular, Be Transparent and Be Diverse’ (ASOS, 2022). Their value in creating a business where individuals can ‘express themselves’ is also aligned with the intention to be more sustainable and circular. Consumers are more inclined to invest in the brand, as their purpose is benefitting the environment and social diversity. 

Stella McCartney’s vision is to become more sustainable by introducing circular fashion, whilst adhering to the UNs Sustainable Development goals, but also maintaining a high level of ethics within the business. Their impacts are measured through ‘Environmental profit & Loss’, and they can then analyse their costs and benefits and act upon them accordingly (Stella McCartney, 2023). “We Can Replace Bad Business with Clean Business” (Chan, 2023).

Communicating a brands purpose to Gen Z is effective through social media, through storytelling and emotional connection (Bo Finneman, 2020). Platforms such as TikTok are popular with this generation, statistics show that ‘over 60% of TikTok users are comprised of generation Z’ (Muliadi, 2020).

Digital campfires allow influencers to advocate a brand, engaging Gen Z consumers and allowing them to interact. Gen Z’s value uniqueness, and engaging stories. ‘This generation expects brands they love to stand out for something’ (Fromm, 2019).

NIKEs culture campaign advertised diversity and the purpose and values of the business to the viewers rather than advertising specific products. This powerful advertising campaign was effective and popular to retailers as it showed that NIKE actually cared about their purpose and not just selling the products (Guardian Sport 2018).

Dr Francesco Mazarella is a fashion activist who targets brand philosophy to Gen Z’s. His brand ReGo not only promotes sustainability but also acts on serious issues, for example transforming knives that have been used inappropriately into jewellery, being used for a new purpose changing ‘scary into ‘beauty’. He gives students a purpose and a voice and helps them make a start in the fashion industry (UAL, 2021).

Everything has a purpose, but making a brands philosophy known to consumers is important, making it a key selling point, enabling people to understand the brand and their intentions. Everyone likes to justify a purchase, to alleviate any guilt from spending money, and if they feel that through their purchase they are doing something for the better good, then they will choose a brand that gives them that opportunity. 

References

ASOS. (2022). Fashion with Integrity: Progress Update. ASOS.

https://asos-12954-s3.s3.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/files/9316/4974/2308/Fashion_With_Integrity_-_Progress_Update_-_120422.pdf

Chan, E. (2023). ‘We can replace bad business with clean business’: Stella McCartney shares her hopes for the fashion industry in 2023. Vogue.

https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/stella-mccartney-sustainable-fashion-2023

Finneman, B, et al. (2020). Meet Generation Z: Shaping the future of Shopping. McKinsey.

https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/meet-generation-z-shaping-the-future-of-shopping

Fromm, J. (2019). Gen Z and the Three Elements of Purpose Brands. Forbes. 

https://www.forbes.com/sites/jefffromm/2019/07/26/gen-z-and-the-three-elements-of-purpose-brands/

Guardian Sport. (2018, September 1). Nike released full ad featuring Colin Kaepernick [Video]. (YouTube).

Kowalewicz, R. (2022). Defining Your Brand’s Purpose. Forbes.

https://www.forbes.com/sites/celinnedacosta/2019/01/31/3-reasons-why-brand-storytelling-is-the-future-of-marketing/)

Leape, S, et al. (2020). More than a mission statement: How the 5ps embed purpose to deliver value. McKinsey.

https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/strategy-and-corporate-finance/our-insights/more-than-a-mission-statement-how-the-5ps-embed-purpose-to-deliver-value

Muliadi, B. (2020). What the Rise of TikTok says about Generation Z. Forbes.

https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbestechcouncil/2020/07/07/what-the-rise-of-tiktok-says-about-generation-z/.

Stella McCartney. (2023). Sustainability. Stella McCartney.

https://www.stellamccartney.com/gb/en/sustainability/sustainability.html#underSlide

UAL. (2021). Join ReGo-a fashion activism against knife crime project. UAL.

https://www.arts.ac.uk/students/stories/take-part-in-rego-a-fashion-activism-against-knife-crime-project

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Profit Blog

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The Profit Pillar examines the difference in price between the cost of production and how much the product is sold for, a business requires profits in order to be financially stable in the industry.

The scale and expense of the fashion industry is immense, due to multiple components and processes involved. The fashion industry had an annual income of between $1.7 and $2.5 trillion globally according to Euromonitor and McKinsey before Covid-19. (Ogbiti, 2023)

McKinsey in its State of Fashion 2017 report said, ‘if it were ranked alongside individual countries’ GDP, the global fashion industry would represent the seventh-largest economy in the world’. (Karl, 2017)

The State of Fashions 2022 report predicts that the luxury sector will outperform other sectors in the industry, as wealthy consumers can afford to travel and shop luxury brands despite hyperinflation.  The report says according to McKinsey ‘the luxury sector is expected to grow between 5 and 10 percent in 2023’. In comparison to ‘a relatively slow sales growth of between -2 and +3 percent’ in 2023 for non-luxury products. (Amed, 2022)

To remain competitive, businesses must adapt their operation techniques, becoming more digital, enabling global and local advertising for the brand. Reducing overproduction and taking into account what is in demand will help keep the profits stable. (Amed, 2022)

Modernised operational techniques and AI will benefit the business by introducing new and exciting ideas. The efficiency and reliability of these digital designs will save time for the creatives and attract consumers. Virtual designs will reduce the environmental damages and reduce production pricing, resulting in preferable pricing for the creatives and consumers. (Langer, 2020)

In order to be successful, brands have to be unique.To be unique FIAT eliminated ‘grey’ toned cars. Instead, promoting bright colours that fused ‘emotion’ and ‘life’, with the intention of boosting sales. (Fiat, 2023)

A London College of Fashion report explains that ‘Creatives’ and ‘Consumers’ should communicate, and consider how much consumers would pay for a product. Understanding the products true value and seeing how comparable it is to its selling value. Other brands can replicate designs, so making sure you don’t deceive the buyer is crucial to ensure customer loyalty. (De Souza Crook, 2017)

‘Dual leadership’ is becoming more common within the fashion industry, the designer collectively works with their business partner or other creative leaders, emerging creativity and artistic views with commerce which leads to economic success. (Overdiek, 2016)

Mitterfellner, O. (2023). Luxury fashion brand management [image]


Consumer behaviours are changing, favouring sustainability and second-hand purchases as well as the potential thrill of making a profit upon resale, on platforms such as Depop and Vinted. Meaning for consumers to connect with a brand, shopping ‘experiences’ need to be modified to keep shoppers on their toes and attract them to buy the original sustainable products. (Hu, 2023). 

References

Amed, I, et al. (2022). The State of Fashion 2023: Holding onto growth as global clouds gather. McKinsey&Company. 

https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion

De Souza Crook, J. (2017). Compelling Fashion Business: Bridging The Divide Between Creative Vision And Commercial Reality. London College of Fashion.

https://www.arts.ac.uk/colleges/london-college-of-fashion/stories/compelling-fashion-business-bridging-the-divide-between-creative-vision-and-commercial-reality

Fiat, 26 June 2023, No More Grey,[Video] (Youtube) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWLX94pzYVk.

Hu, Z. (2023). What’s driving the rise of pre-loved fashion?Drapers. https://www.draperonline.com/insight/analysis/whats-driving-the-rise-in-pre-loved-fashion

Karl, C. (2017). The State of Fashion 2017. McKinsey Global Institute.https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/McKinsey/Industries/Retail/Our%20Insights/The%20state%20of%20fashion/The-state-of-fashion-2017-McK-BoF-report.pdf

Langer, D. (2020). Brand Strategy: Rules for Uncertain Times, FIBRE2FASHION.

https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/8630/brand-strategy-rules-for-uncertain-times

Mitterfellner, O. (2023). Luxury fashion brand management: Unifying fashion with sustainability. Taylor & Francis Group.[image]

https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/ual/detail.action?docID=7260416#

Ogbiti, J., & Uddin, O. (2023). Development of a Computerized System for Fashion Business. International Journal of Science for Global Sustainability, 9(1), 10-10.

https://www.fugus-ijsgs.com.ng/index.php/ijsgs/article/view/399

Overdiek, Anja. (2016) Fashion designers and their business partnershttps://www.ingentaconnect.com/contentone/intellect/infs/2016/00000003/00000001/art00003?crawler=true&mimetype=application/pdf&casa_token=bWKqzrApMCcAAAAA:ITOt9LYqzXtqUoEXA_3TdF4bKb18zz-1R5IWz1-gEdsf8nNaL51PnOBmTAFhc1NJLE6WsQ84fPSqH-4LOw

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People and the Fashion Industry

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‘People’ are an essential sector of the four pillars of the fashion industry. Not only are the people who work within the industry important, but the consumers too, without them, production wouldn’t be necessary. 

Generation Z have a heavy influence on society and the fashion industry. ‘25.9% of the US population are Gen Z’. (News week, 2019)

McKinsey & Company (2023) explains that ‘Generation Z comprises people born between 1996 and 2010. This generation’s identity has been shaped by the digital age, climate anxiety, a shifting financial landscape, and COVID-19.’ 

Due to this, Gen Zs are more eco-conscious and aware of the damages to the world, preferring to purchase sustainably made garments or recycle fashion. Mireles (2023), found that ‘62 percent of Gen Zs would prefer to buy from sustainable brands’.

Gen Zs value individuality and diversity, finding comfort in inclusivity, preferring to use second hand fashion as a tool to express themselves. Jacobs (2020) explains ‘For Gen Z, upcycled, reclaimed fashion is opening up a new sense of individuality and self-expression, while helping to save the planet.’

Being brought up in a heavy tech dependant society, stats show 92% of Gen Zs and millennials tend to shop online (Drapers, 2023). Tik Tok influencers attach a direct link to webpages when modelling brands, making shopping an efficient and addictive ‘activity’. This has become increasingly popular, with Gen Zs making up 60% of the apps one-billion users according to McKinsey & Company (2023).

Fashion brands need teams who are tech savvy, enticing consumers through digital platforms. As said by McKinsey & Company (2022), ‘Fashion businesses are starting to look for people who come from a technology background’.

To attract Gen Z consumers, brands should be up to date with social media and advertise using a diverse mix of influencers and models. Consumers visualise the products, making it relatable, taking into account body type, race and sexual orientation. Enhancing respect and admiration of a brand and therefore the investment in the products.

Gucci uses models of different sizes and cultures. Tirado, Global head of diversity at Gucci stated, ‘inclusivity, respect, and diversity ensuring Gucci remains culturally relevant and economically competitive.’ Altering their advertisement, attempting to be ‘diverse.’ Victoria Secret are also moving away from the stereotypical ‘angels’, introducing the new diverse mix of models, edging away from ‘perfect’.

Cheeseman, A. (2021). Vogue Business [Gucci image].

Jacobs, C (2023).British Vogue [Victoria Secret image].

Without doubt, people skills are essential for success in the fashion industry. Collaboration and integration in the work place is vital. Flexibility of ideas and critical thinking enable us to question ideas, open ourselves up to suggestions and communicate with people within the business, thus operating as a team and thriving in a competitive environment. 

Reference list

Bespoke, D., Morgan, G., Caldart, C. (2023). Gen Z and Millennials 2023. Drapers, https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2023

Cheeseman, A. (2021). Vogue Business [Gucci image].

Devaney, S. (2019). Gucci’s First Ever Diversity Officer Intends to Create “Meaningful Change”. British Vogue. https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/gucci-head-diversity-change#:~:text=Gucci%20has%20announced%20the,company%20–%20and%20the%20fashion%20industry

Jacobs, B. (2020). Why buying vintage clothes is the new luxury. BBC, https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20201113-why-gen-z-and-millennials-go-wild-for-vintage-clothes

Jacobs, C (2023).British Vogue [Victoria Secret image].

Mireles, E. (2023). The rise of Gen Z sustainable shoppers. Fashion takes action, https://fashiontakesaction.com/articles/the-rise-of-gen-z-sustainable-shoppers/

McKinsey & Company (2022). The State of Fashion. McKinsey & Company, https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/mckinsey/industries/retail/our%20insights/state%20of%20fashion/2022/the-state-of-fashion-2022.pdf

McKinsey & Company (2023). What is Gen Z? McKinsey & Company.https://www.mckinsey.com/featured-insights/mckinsey-explainers/what-is-gen-z

(News week, 22 March 2019, 6 things you need to know about generation Z, [Video] (YouTube) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3Bb8oyoLlM

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Our Planet and the Fashion Industry

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It is evident that the textiles and fashion industry have detrimental effects on the planet. There are many major problems from production to retail, that have an immense impact, whether it be socially, economically or environmentally. 

The industry is ranked second place as the most polluting industry, contributing to 10% of carbon dioxide emissions, producing more greenhouse gases than air and sea travel worldwide (1,2,3). 

Circular economy is a much more sustainable cycle that cuts down on wastage as resources are kept in a reusable chain for as long as possible as opposed to ‘traditional linear economy’ where products are made, used and then disposed, producing 120 billion garments a year with 85% of those going to landfill in undeveloped countries like Ghana. 

Patrick Mc Dowell lectures on the sustainability of his brand and how the materials he uses are preloved, demonstrating the importance of creating ‘sustainable luxury’ using recycled materials. He explains how he reuses his collections, styling them differently, presenting a ‘new look’, proving that new ‘wasteful’ pieces don’t need to be created only producing garments on demand. 

A Climbing Family’ Patrick Mc Dowell 

Decent work and economic growth’ is an essential sustainable goal.Products should be made ethically and sustainably, whilst satisfying the targeted audience of consumers and maintaining consistent profits. In the fashion industry, there are multiple areas to satisfy and vast amounts of problems to tackle, it’s important to be consistent with decent work as it will impact the economic growth, benefiting the economy without a negative impact.

Sustainable development goals 

Serious problems will occur with the elimination of decent work. A garment factory in Bangladesh-Rana Plaza, produced clothes for 31 Western multinational brands. The building disastrously collapsed due to extreme overproduction. 1135 workers died and 2500 workers were injured. This overproduction in such compact spaces, was an awakening that treatment of workers is unacceptable in most areas of the fashion industry and needs to be addressed.

Zara addresses this sustainable goal, targeting multiple generations. It’s affordable to the majority, gaining high profits and a steady annual income, making the brand stable year on year compared to a high-end brand where due to the expenses of their products the annual income may vary each year, leading to a false sense of security. 

Zara’s consistent styles are timeless, making a reliable and constantly appealing brand for their consumers. Environmentally, Zara eliminates the risk of chemicals damaging the soil and polluting the water as they use ‘organic’ cotton. ‘Zara owner Inditex (ITX.MC) said it will look to recycling and sustainably farmed crops to reduce its environmental impact by 2030, as fast-fashion retailers face growing pressure to cut waste’. The pressure on all fashion retailers to show themselves to be more sustainable is great. 

In conclusion, for this fashion revolution to be successful I believe that the large fashion companies need to be the ones setting an example in creating a sustainable industry proving that it is possible to function as a circular economy. Consumers need to take on the mantra of Vivienne Westwood ‘Buy less, choose well, make it last.” (5)

Zara

References

(1) ‘Ranking in second place as the most polluting industry’ Muthukumarana, T.T.; Karunathilake, H.P.; Punchihewa, H.K.G.; Manthilake, M.M.I.D.; Hewage, K.N. Life cycle environmental impacts of the apparel industry in Sri Lanka:Analysis of the energy sources. J. Clean. Prod. (2018), 172, 1346–1357. 

(2) ‘10% of carbon dioxide emissions EPRS’. Environmental Impact of the Textile and Clothing Industry. What Consumers Need to Know; European Parliamentary Research Service: Bruxelles, Belgium, (2019).

(3) ‘Production of more greenhouse gases than air and sea travel worldwide, and as a polluting sector’. Gardas, B.B.; Raut, R.D.; Narkhede, B. Modelling the challenges to sustainability in the textile and apparel(T&A) sector: A Delphi-DEMATEL approach. Sustain. Prod. Consum. (2018), 15, 96–108.

(4) Reuters (2023) MADRID/LONDON Zara AGM

(5) Westwood, V (2014)

Sources

Image credit, image 1: Alamy/Javier Hirschfeld, BBC

Image credit image 2: https://www.windowswear.com/the-war-on-waste-fashion-wakes-up-to-recycling-drapers/

Katarina Rimarcikova

Patrick Mc Dowell 

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/The-UN-17-Sustainable-Development-Goals-SDGs-implemented-by-all-the-worlds-countries_fig2_343791128

Chowdhury, 2017, The Rana Plaza disaster and the complicit behaviour of Elite NGOs). 

Chowder, A study on sustainable fashion supply chains of ZARA)

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My Favourite Fashion Brand

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My favourite fashion brand is Schiaparelli, as each garment from different collections is distinctive and eye catching. The use of unique materials and the detail of the embellishments create a powerful look on the vogue runway. Schiaparelli’s garments accommodate for most situations, whether it be Kylie Jenner’s’ dress for ‘Paris Fashion Week’, or Beyoncé’s black feather embellished dress for her ‘Renaissance World Tour’, or even just day to day wear that’s unique with various embellishments. The more casual look is sophisticated and classy with rich colours, combining gold with white, black, red and different tones of blue. The runway pieces are bold, and ‘structural’, making it a powerful look that has a memorable impact on the viewer. 

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