Marcelina Zeligowska

About Marcelina Zeligowska

Posts by Marcelina Zeligowska:

purpose

⋅

In this final part, I will introduce the pillar of “purpose”. The meaning of the purpose of our everyday lives or also applied in a fashion context – a business – varies according to different cultures and value systems. One of the examples of resolving the dilemma of purpose is a Japanese philosophical concept; Ikigai (Van Volkinburg, 2023). According to it finding one’s purpose comes down to mapping an area of overlap between four different factors; the things that we love, what the world needs, what we are great at, and what we can get paid for (Gaines, 2023). The concept that may seem quite philosophical has been researched in Japan and showed findings supporting the idea that having a sense of “Ikigai”, otherwise “life purpose” correlated with lower mortality (Sone et al. 2008). According to the said paper, it is so deeply embedded in the Japanese culture that phrases such as “this hobby is what makes my life worth living (ikigai)” are commonly used. The example shows that having a sense of meaning can have tangible, psychosomatic benefits (Sone et al. 2008).

In current times of globalization and increased awareness, there is a huge need for brands to have a deeper understanding of current issues; “Consumers are looking to manufacturers and retailers to offer more responsible clothing manufactured using socially and environmentally sound methods that enable them to tread lightly on Earth (…)” – as described in “Social Responsibility and Innovation in the Sewn Products Industry” (Hethorn et al., 2015). Almost as if a business without a clear message didn’t provide enough value to fully thrive in the current market; “More and more, we are acting like socially responsible agents who desire personal change and respond as social entrepreneurs by investing in the transformation of our industry, society, and planet” (Hethorn et al., 2015). Having a purpose is therefore not only beneficial but starts to become necessary in order to uphold the social status of a brand.

An example of a brand attuned to Gen Z is The Cloth Collective – a small Georgian brand that produces tights, stockings, and swimwear. It presents a sense of authenticity and creative innovation, coming from a relaxed approach. “We want to reflect our mood through our designs. We put a lot of effort into offering a diverse range of designs so our customers have choices” – say the founders (Magazine Fluid, 2023). Products manufactured on a smaller scale and with more unique designs can set apart a brand and add to its authenticity acting to its advantage. Similar to Heavn by Marc Jacobs, the Cloth Collective carries a sense of individuality and therefore becomes more relatable to the younger generation (Subair, 2022).

Resources

Van Volkinburg N. (2023). Intro to…Purpose [PowerPoint slides]. Moodle@UAL https://moodle.arts.ac.uk/login/index.php

Gaines, J. (2023, October 3). The Philosophy of Ikigai: 3 Examples about Finding Purpose. PositivePsychology.com. https://positivepsychology.com/ikigai/#examples

Sone, T., Nakaya, N., Ohmori, K., Shimazu, T., Higashiguchi, M., Kakizaki, M., Kikuchi, N., Kuriyama, S., & Tsuji, I. (2008). Sense of Life Worth Living (Ikigai) and mortality in Japan: Ohsaki study. Psychosomatic Medicine, 70(6), 709–715. https://doi.org/10.1097/psy.0b013e31817e7e64

Hethorn, J., Ulasewicz, C., & McDonough, W. (2015). Sustainable Fashion: What’s Next? A Conversation about Issues, Practices and Possibilities. http://ci.nii.ac.jp/ncid/BA87489333

Magazine Fluid [@mgzngluid]. (2023, October 29). “today we’re presenting the interview with @the.clothcollective , a Tbilisi-based clothing brand focusing on quality prints & shapes” [Photographs]. Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/mgznfluid/

Subair, E. (2022, April 19). How Marc Jacobs’s Heaven Became A Gen-Z Fashion Obsession. British Vogue. https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/ava-nirui-heaven-interview-2022

Images:

Magazine Fluid [@mgzngluid]. (2023, October 29). “today we’re presenting the interview with @the.clothcollective , a Tbilisi-based clothing brand focusing on quality prints & shapes” [Photographs]. Instagram. https://www.instagram.com/mgznfluid/

Liked Liked
No Comments

the profit blog

⋅

In this part, I will introduce the pillar of “profit”. We all associate the fashion industry with creatives, even geniuses but it is an interesting point to consider if it’s a rightful place for designers to put themselves on the same level as people in other creative fields. Is fashion as an art form worth pursuing when from a marketing perspective the idea of owning a brand is creating a business and generating profit?

We know that the fashion industry is a huge, really competitive, and fast-moving sector. (Gazzola, 2020) According to the author of “Psychology of Fashion” the global value of the fashion industry is about 3 trillion dollars and it employs 57.8 million people overall (Mair, 2018).

Looking at the story and success of Alexander McQueen’s brand, especially its beginning we could consider the artistic approach as beneficial for emerging brands. In his performance art movie “The Bridegroom Stripped Bare” (2002) McQueen places himself in the role of an artist and essentially ventures into performance art rather than fashion, which was not uncommon for this designer when he “blurred the boundary between a runway show and a new kind of installation art” (Knox, 2010). In a symbolic way, he breaks the stereotype of a faceless entity behind the project and rather a person who actively partakes in the creative process- an artist, (C. Stevenson, personal communication, October 16, 2023), which might be seen as a unique approach from the perspective of fast fashion era when the artistry of making clothes is under the cover and disregarded, because of the rate of global consumption.

The images were taken at an Alexander McQueen-themed part of the “REBEL: 30 years of London” Fashion exhibition in the Design Museum

As much as the beginning of McQueen’s history does present a quite avant-garde image, the brand is now still recognizable and after the founder’s death continued to operate. Therefore we might argue that the cause of a brand’s success is the persona and “spirit” of the designer that is immortalized through the archive of their work, building a foundation for the reception of the brand (Mora & Berry, 2022). Looking at McQueen or brands like Channel and its time under Karl Lagerfeld’s direction we might draw the conclusion that it’s the individuality that keeps a brand going. Therefore the role of a creative director and the persona they build is crucial.

One of the other important factors is the role of technology in fashion; “To be dynamic is becoming strategic to survive in the long-term and this implies the need for companies to update technologies and to interpret the new trends and to identify how these challenges can be translated into marketing opportunities”(Gazzola & colleagues, 2020) as well as the importance of sustainability, which has recently been described as “ an important new driver in consumers’ purchasing decisions” (Gazzola & colleagues, 2020). With the heightened awareness of global issues presented by the Gen Z customers, the market shows a need to adjust in these areas.

The images were taken at an Alexander McQueen-themed part of the “REBEL: 30 years of London” Fashion exhibition in the Design Museum

Resources:

Mair, C. (2018). The psychology of fashion. Routledge.

Gazzola, P., Pavione, E., Pezzetti, R. R., & Grechi, D. (2020). Trends in the fashion industry. The Perception of Sustainability and Circular Economy: A Gender/Generation Quantitative Approach. Sustainability, 12(7), 2809. https://doi.org/10.3390/su12072809

McQueen, A.M. (Director). (2002). “The Bridegroom Stripped Bare” [Film].

Knox, K. (2010). Alexander McQueen: Genius of a Generation. http://ci.nii.ac.jp/ncid/BB03561173

Juliana Luna Mora & Jess Berry (2022) Creative Direction Succession in Luxury Fashion: The Illusion of Immortality at Chanel and Alexander McQueen, Luxury, 9:2-3, 117-140, DOI: 10.1080/20511817.2022.2194039

Liked Liked
No Comments

the people blog

⋅

In this text, I will discuss the pillar of the “people” area. From a fashion business perspective, it covers the consumers, and attuning to their needs is one of the ultimate goals.

The generation that is currently really prominent on the global market is Gen Z . One of the terms relevant when describing it is “digital native”, speaking of Gen Zers being born with the technology at hand. This generation is further described as a “hypercognitive (…), very comfortable with collecting and cross-referencing many sources of information ”. (Francis, Hoefel, 2018)

One of the other key factors in characterizing it is that its members look above socio-economic differences in order to connect, which is partly caused by the accessibility of the internet and social media (Francis, Hoefel, 2018). This phenomenon seems to be in some ways reflected in our styles of purchasing and dressing, as Gen Zers look for and value individuality, almost above anything else. We could say that “Companies should be attuned to three implications for this generation: consumption as access rather than possession, consumption as an expression of individual identity, and consumption as a matter of ethical concern”. (Francis, Hoefel, 2018)

It is an interesting viewpoint to follow Gen Z’s trends and look at what brands and styles are popular amongst them. One that reflects the atmosphere of the generation, showing eclectism and emphasis on individuality is Heaven by Marc Jacobs with colorful, 90s Japanese fashion-inspired, eclectic motives. The brand bases its marketing on individual identity and collaborates on shoots with pop-culture icons such as Pamela Anderson, Bella Hadid, Michèle Lamy, and more, successfully building a more personal connection with the customer. (Subair, 2022) By creating a melting pot of different aesthetics and subcultures Heavn presents something resembling the atmosphere depicted now in social media, furthermore attuning to the young consumer.

“When I was a teenager, I was scared of walking into boutique stores alone and touching things. In our shop, kids will grab books and sit on the floor and make new friends – it’s all about creating a comfortable environment.” – says the creator Ava Nirui (Subair, 2022). In the same article, she continues “But the idea is not to place these pieces out of reach. With less of an emphasis on “buy now” culture in fashion” (Subair, 2022); proving that the brand is also in some way attuned to the “buy-less mindset”, highlighting the emphasis on the individuality and emotional value of each piece, rather than overconsumption. Therefore we can see how Heavn successfully checks the points needed to connect with Gen Z and grab its short attention span.

Bibliography

Francis, T., & Hoefel, F. (2018b, November 12). ‘True Gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies. McKinsey & Company. Retrieved October 14, 2023, from https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies

Subair, E. (2022, April 19). How Marc Jacobs’s Heaven Became A Gen-Z Fashion Obsession. British Vogue. https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/ava-nirui-heaven-interview-2022g

Image resources, order as used:

Hanne Zaruma | Metal Magazine. (2020, June 10). Pinterest. https://pl.pinterest.com/pin/589830882473949858/

High Art. (2023, October 14). Pinterest. https://pl.pinterest.com/pin/589830882473949862/

Hand And Finger Tattoos. (2023, October 14). Pinterest. https://pl.pinterest.com/pin/589830882473949831/

Gen Z Collage. (2023, October 14). Pinterest. https://pl.pinterest.com/pin/589830882473949835/

Sanrio. (2023, October 14). Pinterest. Retrieved October 14, 2023, from https://pl.pinterest.com/pin/589830882473948431/

Normcore Outfits. (2023, October 14). Pinterest. https://pl.pinterest.com/pin/589830882473948435/

heaven. (2023, October 14). Pinterest. https://pl.pinterest.com/pin/589830882473948433/

The Need-to-know New Fashion Openings In London 2023. (2023, October 14). Pinterest. https://pl.pinterest.com/pin/589830882473949922/

Liked Liked
No Comments

,

the planet blog

⋅

According to the author of “Psychology of Fashion” the global value of the fashion industry is about 3 trillion dollars and it employs 57.8 million people overall, meaning it’s a huge, global business. The UN report from 2015 showed that the fashion industry produces emissions on a bigger scale than the transport industry altogether, creating around 10% of all global emissions.

It is a crucial issue to consider in terms of sustainability and its effects on the planet because of its universal nature. Fashion is connected to any other business area and consumer in the world. Still, it uses a now outdated so-called linear business model that targets constant, exponential growth resulting in a massive overproduction. Alternatively using a circular model defined by The Ellen McArthur Foundation as follows: “clothes, fabric, and fibres re-enter the economy after use and never end up as waste”.

All of this information supports the idea that the overproduction of clothing is a real, environmental issue on a global scale. However, sustainability in terms of fashion can be approached from multiple levels beyond the environment.

According to a model proposed by the United Nations that helps to look at complex environmental issues from a more holistic perspective one of the areas we should focus on is “Responsible Consumption and Production”, however, the model goes beyond the aspect of physical waste and touches on issues such as “Reduced Inequalities”.

An example of a brand that succeeds at such an approach is Patrick McDowell, who focuses on repurposing deadeadstock materials from brands like Burberry, Swarovski, and other known ones but also on supporting the queer community, upholding a connection with the clients in order to keep a circular business model, which means enabling repairs and remakes of their pieces in the future and also spreads messages meaningful for the creator. The integrity of this brand’s philosophy is greatly admirable.

Another example is a Swedish women-founded and managed brand DJERF Avenue. It markets itself as a “non-seasonal” brand and produces ethically and from very eco-conscious materials but also promotes equality by representing a variety of minorities, starting from women of color through older women up to women with disabilities e.g. models on wheelchairs.

Both of these examples show the environmental consciousness that in the upcoming years should become the fashion industry standard if we are looking for ways to implement positive change.

Bibliography

Djerf Avenue. (n.d.). About us | Djerf Avenue. https://djerfavenue.com/en-gb/about-us/

Dpicampaigns. (2023, May 31). Take action for the sustainable development goals – United Nations Sustainable Development. United Nations Sustainable Development. https://www.un.org/sustainabledevelopment/sustainable-development-goals/

Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future (2017).

patrickmcdowell. (n.d.). ABOUT. Patrickmcdowell. https://patrickmcdowell.co.uk/pages/about

Mair, C. (2018). The psychology of fashion. Routledge.

United Nations Climate Change. (2018, September 6). https://unfccc.int/news/un-helps-fashion-industry-shift-to-low-carbon. unfccc.int. Retrieved October 4, 2023, from https://unfccc.int/news/un-helps-fashion-industry-shift-to-low-carbon

image resources:

Tearall, R. (2023, September 19). Patrick. Pinterest. https://pl.pinterest.com/pin/342344009191294705/

OKEV GROUP. (2023, September 23). NEWEST FIND: Djerf Avenue Edition⭐️. Pinterest. https://pl.pinterest.com/pin/986077280895187474/

Ayala, A. (2023, August 28). Trendy Outfits. Pinterest. https://pl.pinterest.com/pin/11259067811319815/

Masnicová, M. (2023, February 18). What is Circular Economy & How Does It Work? : Complete Guide – RTS. Pinterest. https://pl.pinterest.com/pin/525232375305604415/

Liked Liked
No Comments
Green Hybrid Ballerina Flats

favorite brand

⋅

One of my favorite brands right now is Kiko Kostadinov.

The designer graduated at Saint Martins and originally created menswear but now is venturing into womenswear as well. One of the factors I appreciate his work for is unique footwear that does a great job at connecting delicate, more stereotypically feminine elements like bows and lace-up details with gym tech-inspired design, as well as bold colors.

I really loved the hair and makeup in the spring ready-to-wear collection from 2023 and how extravagant they felt, also the choice of the show venue for that collection in Paris- resembling an old-school gym really caught my attention.

All the elements the brand uses feel both refreshing yet familiar and reminiscent of a childhood in the 2000s.

Liked Liked
No Comments