Planet: Sustainability in relation to fashion.

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At the beginning of the Industrial Revolution, the fashion industry adopted a linear business model that has persisted for nearly three centuries. (Hethorn & Wulasewicz, 2015) Today, the fashion industry is the third-largest contributor to global carbon emissions, accounting for 10%. (European Parliament, 2021) This problem has been worsened by the rapid growth of fast fashion retailers, who intentionally encourage overconsumption and impulse buying with promotional incentives and the allure of being ahead of current trends. As a result, a cycle has developed in which clothing has become disposable, resulting in a 36% drop in the use of a garment but an increase in annual clothing purchases, quantified as 26.7 kg per person in the UK. (UNEP, 2015; ECAP, 2018) The industry must employ eco-friendly practices to mitigate environmental impacts throughout the supply chain.

As part of the 2030 Agenda, the UN set 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Of the 17, SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production most closely relates to the challenges faced in the fashion industry. (United Nations, n.d.) At the core of irresponsible consumption in the fashion industry lies fast fashion retailers like Zara, Shein, etc. The fast fashion business model relies on mass consumerism driven by impulse buying. With a focus on reduced costs and low-quality garments, consumers are compelled to frequently purchase items. Production is reliant on underpaid child and women laborers, and synthetic fabrics make up more than half of all materials used in clothing today. (Textile Exchange, 2022) The International Labor Organization (ILO) estimates that 170 million child laborers are employed worldwide, most of whom work in textiles and garment manufacturing. (ILO, 2020)

In recent years, there has been a shift towards circular fashion, which aims to minimize input and output waste throughout the production process while extending the life cycle of garments. (Gwilt, 2021) The term ‘circular fashion’ was first coined in 2014 and follows a model in which a sustainable, ‘closed-loop’ system is used. (Niinimaki, 2018) Each garment is produced with intention in each step and is traced until the end of its life cycle. This approach incorporates recyclable materials, non-hazardous production substances, and product repair and reuse of old materials. The circular model shifts the aftercare of a garment to the consumer, focusing on upcycling and recycling.

Fast fashion brand H&M has implemented environmentally conscious practices, including the ‘CanopyStyle’ policy to prevent deforestation in its supply chain and using Bloom, a flexible foam made from algae biomass. Other brands like Patrick MacDowell, Patagonia, and Levi Strauss have prioritized using recycled fabrics over creating new garments and have begun focusing on aftercare, such as tailoring old garments or repurposing items. By shifting the fashion industry’s focus towards extending garment lifecycles and consumer-centric aftercare, we can pave the way for a more sustainable trajectory.

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